Climbing is pretty difficult, but no cliff or crag could ever compare to the difficulty of learning all the lingo. I work at a rock gym and climb all the time and even I am constantly hit with sentences that make me want to climb over the top of the wall and hide. To help out new climbers (and experienced ones who are too afraid to ask), Iâve put together a list of key climbing lingo to know before you climb for the first time.
Traverse
If youâve never climbed before, âtraversingâ is a great way to start! Youâll never need to worry about the height, because in traversing you only climb sideways. Itâs a great way to warm up or get acclimated to being on the wall.Â
Top Rope
Once you feel ready to start going upwards, top rope is how youâll do it. This kind of climbing is named as such because the rope you use is attached to the top of the wall. Top rope is very common in indoor climbing and less so outdoors.Â
Lead
More experienced indoor and outdoor climbers often forgo top rope for lead climbing. In this kind of climbing, climbers bring their own ropes which they clip into âdrawsâ on the wall as they climb. Draws are the clips that lead climbers attach their ropes to. In indoor gyms, these will already be on the wall, but if youâre climbing outside youâll have to bring your own. When you fall on lead, you fall to the last place you clipped into. As long as you remember to clip and do so correctly, youâll be okay!Â
Whipper
A whipper is a large fall taken while lead climbing. Whippers cause a falling climber to swing in a whip-like arc, which is where their name comes from. Some people love the adrenaline of taking a big whipper, but I am not one of them. The way lead rope systems work, if the climber is heavier than the belayer, a whipper can cause the belayer to fly up into the air, possibly within high-fiving distance of the climber. These kinds of falls are often very dramatic and loud, but injuries are rare as long as the climber and belayer have done their jobs well.Â
Heel Hook
We now come to my favorite climbing move! Climbers heel hook to anchor themselves into a strong position when just grabbing on tight isnât enough. Heel hooks (my pride and joy) are especially common on overhung routes where the climber is nearly parallel to the ground. To avoid slipping out and becoming vertical again (âcutting feetâ), you can wedge your heels into a hold to make use of the natural shape of your body.
The objectively worse little brother of heel hooking is toe hooking. Itâs not fun, itâs not cool, and it is definitely not endorsed by the Shaker Writing Center.Â
Flagging
Sometimes a hold is just out of reach! To potentially close the gap, climbers will âflagâ by standing on one leg, stretching out the other leg, and reaching with the opposite arm. This stance kind of makes the climber look like a flag (where the flagpole is the hold being reached for), but I donât really see it. đłď¸
Dyno
Fly, my pretties! âDynoâ is short for âdynamic movement,â which basically translates into a giant leap. The difference between a dyno and other dynamic movements like a deadpoint (the use of core and hip strength to propel your body weight upwards) is the number of points of contact on the wall. Other moves have the same explosive look as a dyno, but it only counts if all four limbs are off in the wall (in the air).Â
Static
Basically the opposite of a dynamic movement, a static movement or âstatic-ing itâ is separating each move rather than chaining them together. What static climbing loses on momentum it makes up for in control. Taller climbers are generally able to static moves that shorter climbers would have to climb dynamically to make (that is to say: tall climbers are cheating).
Dual Tex
This one puzzled me for a very long time before I was able to work up the courage to ask what it meant. Dual tex are a kind of climbing hold in indoor climbing that can simulate the feel of certain kinds of smooth stone found in outdoor climbing. âDualâ means âtwoâ and âtexâ is short for âtextures.â A dual tex hold consists of a slippery plastic piece and a more traditional rough piece. Itâs easy to get a grip on the rough part, but watch out for the plastic! Theyâre hard to grab with your hands and downright lethal to stand on. I guess a singular dual tex hold is called a dual tek? Iâve never actually seen it spelled out, so that might not be quite right. Iâm 90% sure itâs something like that. Â
Bonus Round: Miguelâs Pizza
This isnât verbal lingo, but the logo of Miguelâs Pizza, a pizza shop in Kentucky, is very common in climbing-related spaces. This mysterious symbol with no obvious connection to climbing haunted me for years before I finally figured it out. Miguelâs Pizzaâs location in Kentucky, near a popular outdoor climbing area called the Red River Gorge, has made it a pilgrimage destination for climbers. The ubiquitous smiling face of Miguel shines down on all climbers regardless of their understanding of his origin.
Iâve realized while writing this how much lingo there actually is and how little Iâve been able to cover, so if you want to learn more I suggest going climbing and picking it up in real life. But be warned! None of this makes more sense in context.